heritageatplay

Posts Tagged ‘Dublin’

The Heritage at Play Collection

In Collection, Culture, Reflections on September 4, 2010 at 7:17 pm

In the course of our three weeks in Ireland, we collected a number of flags, scarves, programs, and of course, gaelic games sporting equipment to bring home and share with our American friends. With any luck, we will soon formally display this items at an exhibition accompanying the premiere screening of “Playing Irish.” In the meantime, take a look at some of things we brought back with us from Ireland, including the hurls, jerseys, and gaelic football we used/played with in our Broadcasts from Dublin.

Two Weeks Out: Ireland from Abroad

In Games, News, Updates on July 30, 2010 at 2:17 am

It’s been just over two weeks since we left Dublin Airport for Boston. Though it seems like only a short gap, we’ve substantially been missing the Irish, the life in Dublin, and the thrill of exploring the implications of Gaelic Games on the people of the Irish Republic. Which means we have not stopped going over things (like our footage), revisiting unresolved questions (like what is happening in Northern Ireland, and how it prevented us from getting to Belfast), and of course following the progress of the intercounty competitions.

One big thing we would learn after leaving Dublin was that a potential contact at RTE had decided to retire. This made us feel a considerable bit better about the failure to actually visit the Irish media giant and learn how they covered GAA events firsthand.

While we were in Ireland, Waterford had forced an epic replay with Cork by scoring a goal in the dying moments of the Munster Hurling Championship. Following on the RTE’s iPhone App a week later, we learned that Waterford put the Rebels away to take the Munster crown.

The Dublin (“Dubs”) Gaelic Football team, the very ones we watched be dismantled by Meath, have made considerable strides in their qualifying for the All-Ireland Football Championship. In the GAA, teams eliminated from their Provincial Championships are entered into a secondary “qualifier” bracket that can advance them into playoffs with the four regional champions for a place in the All-Ireland final. Speaking to people around Ireland revealed some disagreement about the appropriateness of this system. Some saw it as a second chance for losers, others a long needed multigame solution for weaker counties. Whatever the feelings, Dublin is taking considerable advantage of this second chance and is moving towards making up for that shameful loss almost a month ago

We got three hurls, three sliotars, and a gaelic football for our time in the Emerald Isle studying such things. Back home in the US with them, Colleen and I have both taken a few afternoons to play around with them and to show them to our friends. The enthusiasm has been incredibly high for the hurls, though actually striking the ball (and mastering the lift) proves hilariously difficult. Everyone has the same awe-struck reaction when we hand them a hurl: “wow, this looks like a weapon…”

And that brings us to the hear and now: Colleen is in Boston working at the Institute for Contemporary Art, and I am in Fairfax, Virginia at a little conference on the Digital Humanities. This project has already come up several times, and a bunch of people wish I’d brought the hurl to try it out.

The Broadcast from Dublin #7: A Final Farewell

In Broadcasts, Reflections, Travel on July 19, 2010 at 10:59 pm

(Click on blog title to see full video!)

Our time in Ireland is now over but Colleen and I are proud to share a final Broadcast from Dublin. When we made our first one over three weeks ago, we hoped we would be able to make four or five by the end of the trip. Instead, we made nine! Seven in Dublin, one from Offaly, and one from Cork total over 45 minutes of Irish adventures!

This latest Broadcast is a big of compendium. We’ve got highlights from throughout the trip that we didn’t have time (or cause) to share before. Like the cat who hid under the Book of Kells library at Trinity College we fed once in a while, or the horse in the castle in Offaly that Colleen tried to help tame. There is some action from me enjoying a hurling match at O’Donoghue’s Pub on Nassau Street, and footage from our trip to the Abbey Theatre- Ireland’s National Theatre renowned for premiering works by Beckett, Yeats, and Sean O’Casey.

And then there is Dublin at Midnight. We were late coming home from Cork, and missed the last bus home to Rathmines. So we walked home instead, allowing us an opportunity to reflect on the way the trip has gone. Which would be quite well.

Though this is the last Broadcast from Dublin, it is not the end of our project. Indeed, we have quite some work still ahead of us, with a feature-length documentary to cull from our hours of footage. Now back in the US, that task takes top priority, even while Colleen goes back to work at Boston’s Institute for Contemporary Art, and I prepare for a week-long Digital Humanities conference in Washington, DC! We miss Ireland already, but at least we’ve got these Broadcasts to celebrate our time there!

The Broadcast from Dublin #5: How to Play Hurling

In Broadcasts, Competitions, Games on July 13, 2010 at 2:38 pm

(Click on post title to see full video!)

The moment we (Zack) have all been waiting for is finally here. The hurl has been procured, the field found, and sliotar itching to be struck. But how does all this work then? What are the rules? What are the techniques? How, after all this watching, does the playing of hurling actually occur?

Ross O’Carroll, a stand-out Kilmacud Crokes star and Dublin inter-county player, took the time to show us. (The man has his own wikipedia page, so you know he’s legit). Ross is a master with the hurl, effortlessly taking up the Ash (as in the type of wood) hurl, and bouncing the sliotar anywhere he chooses.

Introducing us to the fact that in hurling:

  1. You cannot pick up the ball with your hand so you must
  2. Use the hurl to flick the ball to your hand using either
  3. The roll-lift (see video) or
  4. The jab-lift to gain possession

After that, a player may

  1. Run four steps before hitting the ball away
  2. Or run four steps and throw ball on the hurl, balancing it on the end of the stick as you run
  3. Or flicking the ball between hand and hurl with only two catches permitted before you whack the ball away

Sound confusing? It is, kinda. But take a look at the video and you may get better feel for the game. After all, games are meant to be played, not described, so playing this sport gave us a much better idea of how it actually goes about.

Iced Chocolate, Digestives & Tea: A Sweet Tooth’s Ireland

In Culture, Reflections on July 10, 2010 at 3:28 pm

Colleen eagerly awaits her Iced Chocolate

I’ve been pretty chipper throughout this project — one large reason why is that I’ve had access to massive amounts of chocolate. I believe I inherited this deep and never-ending craving for chocolate from my mother, who also loves Ireland and keeps a constant stock of dark chocolate in a cabinet in our laundry room.

Ireland has many habits, stores, and cafes to fit the chocoholic’s fancies. For one, their daily “cuppa tea” time is never without biscuits and digestives — two mysteriously healthy terms for basically chocolate cookies or Kit Kat bars. The digestifs are suited for dipping in tea, but Zack and I have gotten in the habit of buying logs of these cookies and snacking on them throughout the day.

But the real joys of chocolate access happen in these delicious cafes that abound in Dublin, called Butler’s Chocolate Cafes. Butler’s is chocolate heaven: an inviting gold and glass decor with glittering gold-wrapped truffles sells a variety of coffees, drinks, and freshly made chocolates. They have the standard cafe fare, like cappuccinos and cafe mochas, but some new favorites which have blown my chocolate addicted mind. The most ambitious being the hot cookie chocolate, an iced mocha with bits of oreos thrown in for good measure.

But the best kept secret was the “iced chocolate”, and is just what you expect: smooth creamy chocolate melted down and mixed with milk, but served chilled and icy. Why has this not been invented in the US?! Why are we so satisfied with the “hot” chocolate? I am indignant. And desperate to start my own chain of Butler’s in the US, which I am certain will spread like chocolate, procreating bunnies.

The first time I went into a Butler’s I ordered an “iced chocolate”. I handed over the 3 euro to the cashier, who handed me back a small gold-wrapped truffle. “It’s complimentary: to go with your drink.” she said.

Oh, how kind of you! Yes, one dose of chocolate in the form of creamy delicious drinkability isn’t enough. I needed a milk chocolate truffle, the espresso shot of candies, to complete the experience. Thank you, Ireland, for knowing exactly how to charm me and my taste buds.

As if the iced chocolate wasn’t delicious and creamy and freshly made enough, the truffle melted into a gooey center like only straight-from-the-chocolate-shop candies can be. Truffles stored in boxes or cabinets in laundry rooms for a few weeks, or even a few days, become hard and loose their sparkle. They’re still delicious. But why should we settle for less?

-CB

Visiting the Book of Kells: Inspiration & Disappointment

In Culture, History, Travel on July 5, 2010 at 2:30 pm

We have been working hard on the Heritage at Play project, and you dear reader have been reaping the benefits! But of course there is so much else to see and explore in Dublin and the countryside, we have taken the time to explore some of the famous heritage and arts & culture sites with the little time we have to spare.

Last week we visited Trinity College – Dublin and took the tour of the Book of Kells. The exhibition title, “Turning Darkness into Light”, was charming and mysterious: we imagined dark and cold stone towers with monks bent over wooden desks, copying script from another book, painstakingly grinding colors and give detailed swirls and illustrations to each page, giving the words a luminous and stirring quality in a dark and hopeless time.

The exhibition played off the title literally and figuratively: it is installed in the basement of the ancient library at Trinity, with deep maroon wall texts and hangings and dim lighting. The exhibition focuses mostly on the production and historical context of books and manuscripts in medieval Ireland: it talks about the history of Christianity and the pre-Christian writing and religious text in the first room, and in the second most substantial room of the exhibition, gives a detailed account with video documentation of how to produce vellum and the different precious stones needed to produce certain colors. A few of the historical contexts seemed a bit off-topic to us: one corner was dedicated to the parallels between Egyptian and Celtic manuscript decoration, and another wall with a large poem about a monk and his cat Pangur Ban.

All of this was meant to prepare you for the final room, the venerated object we were all waiting for, the Book of Kells. The room was plain, dark, and cool, and a soft light shone down on a long stone slab in the middle of the room about waist-height. The slab was hollowed and in it, the Book of Kells, along with the Book of Durrows and a few others ancient texts, covered with thick glass. The pages the book was turned to seemed insignificant, and we found out later that the pages were turned once every 6 weeks to “refresh” the exhibition, so they were not turned to anything specifically meaningful.

Zack and I talked about the exhibition afterwards, and ways we wished it could have been improved. Namely, we felt that considering the Book of Kells was the main attraction, it should have been far more central to the exhibition. Instead of that second enormous room being dedicated to all the historical and artistic context of the Book, we imagined the walls being covered with pages from the Book of Kells, ringing the walls, with key elements and important sections being pointed to and referenced. Even if the pages were reproductions, we felt this would make the Book of Kells more centralized. The exhibition was interesting, but left us feeling like the Book of Kells was still a mystery. An exhibition that privileges the pages of the book over the historical context would give visitors a chance to get more intimate with the pages.

Dublin, Ireland or Dublin, the World?

In Culture, History, Politics on July 5, 2010 at 1:59 pm

Zack shows off his Gaillimh (that's Galway in Irish) supporters scarf at Croke Park.

Dublin is a most modern city. The streets are filled with foreign tourists taking in the sights, and now increasingly its shops are staffed by foreign workers who are taking advantage of the EU’s fluid emigration system. In downtown Dublin, it would be odd to hear someone casually speaking Irish, but hearing Bulgarian, Spanish, or Turkish has become quite normal. Despite signage everywhere (in parks, on buses, on street signs) written in Irish, the language is virtually extinct in Dublin city life. On the buses around town, English prevails with any number of international languages demonstrating the cosmopolitan flavor of the Irish capital today.

A ride out of the city however seems to change all that. In Offaly, everyone we met had either grown up in the very village we were visiting, or had married in from a nearby parish. In the countryside, memory and community blend together with everyone accounting for the existence of everyone else. While touring Offaly, and shaking hands with new friends, we were also given the connections between these new faces and people we had already met. Ray would tell us that this was the son of the woman we were staying with, or this was the nephew of the man we met up the road, or these were the grandchildren of that kind lady who published the book on the history of Cloghan with her sister. And Ray was himself no exception to this as he often added that this was his uncle-in-law, or his parents, or one time, his little son Aaron.

The only place in Dublin where the Irish language prevails, indeed, rules is Croke Park itself. Founded alongside such movements as the Gaelic League and the broader Celtic Revival, the GAA has always been closely connected with Irish cultural nationalism. I had been reserved about expecting this cultural nationalism to be present today, especially as the GAA has very modern facilities, ideas about sports, marketing, strategic plans, and all of the other by-products of global sports culture.

But none of this distracts the GAA from doing what it has always done. In Croke Park the announcements are all primarily in Irish with English only added for important clarifications. Moreover, the team names are all printed in the programs and on the jerseys in their Irish spellings, with Kilkenny rendered Cill Channaigh and Galway written Gaillimh.

Outside the park, walking back across the city centre, the languages of Europe and the world return, reminding even the proud GAA fan that Dublin is at once the capital of an ancient nation and a node in an international network of world cities.

The Boxer in the Bathroom

In Culture, History on June 29, 2010 at 9:10 pm

The men’s room at Porterhouse is an odd place to meet someone famous. We had decided to have dinner at the gastro-pub (in American, brew-pub) when a good friend suggested we meet there for drinks, insisting that pints were all quite excellent, which was true, and that the food was likewise inspired. She had clearly never been to the gentleman’s room.

First, the men’s room had one of those foul odors that clings to certain alleys in certain rough urban areas of downtown American cities. You know, one of those alleys that just in passing seems torture enough for olfactory faculties. But this was the whole bathroom and if you needed it, well, that was that.

The gent’s room also had an odd bit of art of the urinals. Poised above each men’s relieving station was a the photograph of a woman peering over an imaginary wall separating your smelly reality from their judgmental position somewhere with clean air and fragrant skies. The women were all looking down at the urinals, their eyes opened wide in judgement and, occasionally, excitement, at what they saw. Taking up a stance beneath a particularly skeptical-looking brunette, I proceeded to meet “Bernard” a former World Champion boxer.

He started up the conversation with something that I could not understand.

“Excuse me?” I replied.

He sensed the accent.

“Where you from man?” he asked back, positioned beneath an alluring red head.

“Boston.”

“Oh I love Boston” he responded.

I had a feeling he might. Irish people have thus far all been very perky and excited about hearing that I am from Boston. Many have been over and enjoyed it, with our mobile salesman even telling us he got free drinks in Cheers because he had an Irish accent. “What a grand place,” the salesman had mused, “I’d love to go back.”

The man in the bathroom told me that he had lived in Santa Monica for quite sometime. Didn’t really like it he told me. The people were weird, he confessed. I agreed: “California can have some plastic people.” “Plastic” he repeated, “exactly.”

He asked me if I followed boxing. Never, I responded. Never even seen a full fight. He looked disappointed but continued.

“I was the World Champion, in the featherweight division.”

I really had no idea how to respond. This was a random man in a very stinky bathroom I desperately wanted to leave. You don’t run into people like this randomly do you? I doubted his sincerity. I had admitted I was American, so I am sure that must have opened up myself as a target for such jokes. He shook my hand, told me he was Bernard (I told him I was Zack) and he wished me a good time in Ireland. I thanked him.

Back at the table, I interrupted the banter to explain my case.

“I just met a man who said he was the World Champion of boxing in the bathroom,” I said. “Is it common for Dubliners to toy with Americans like this?”

My Irish friends looked shocked.

“Do you meet Bernard then?” they asked, “We thought we saw him, he’s a local celebrity here!”

“Oh,” I responded.

They went off about his exploits.

Reflecting, I came to gather that my experience was no joke, but rather the candid sensation of meeting someone in a distressed bathroom in Dublin and doubting the authenticity of such an odd encounter. But I, for one, have learned from the experience.

The Broadcast from Dublin #2

In Broadcasts, Culture, Games on June 28, 2010 at 3:46 pm

(Note: Click on post title to see full video)

There was a great mix of excitement and anxiety about attending our first GAA match. For one thing, we had never before seen a complete gaelic game. I mean we had never seen one start to finish, kick-off to conclusion, point to point to point. Then there was the excitement and intimidation about receiving this introduction at Croke Park, the GAA’s national stadium, and a venue that can seat 82,300 making it the third largest stadium in Europe. And finally, there was the trepidation and exhilaration about seeing it from Hill 16, a standing room only venue, home to Dublin’s most raucous and passionate (even venomous) fans. Hill 16 is a legendary component of Croke Park having allegedly been built on the rubble caused by the Easter 1916 uprising in Dublin. Even today the area is something hallowed among GAA fans and Irish Nationalists alike, with fans in the stand wearing shirts emblazoned with rifles and images referencing the romantic failure of that foreshadowing revolt. In fact, the website for the Dublin GAA can be found at hill16.ie .

But we went nonetheless, guided only by a steady stream of baby blue shirts crisscrossing Dublin all homing in on the events of Croke Park. The security, fortunately, let us take our cameras in, and consequently we bring you this second broadcast from Dublin with creative commons licensed music from Aislinn. As they say on Hill 16, “Come on you boys in blue!”

-ZM

The Broadcast from Dublin #1

In Broadcasts, Videos on June 27, 2010 at 11:13 am

(Note: Click on the title of this post to get the full video window!)

Since arriving in Ireland, we have been followed constantly by our cameras, documenting our travails and explorations as well as our preparations for today’s Dublin-Meath Senior Football Semifinal at Croke Park (with a bonus second match between Westmeath and Louth if we can handle it).

This video includes:

- 1 Irish Cottage

- 2 vaguely confused and yet eager American travelers

- 3 shots of Dublin Castle

- 4 views of Rathmines Village

- and many more images of Dublin small and large sure to entertain!

As we speak, Colleen and I are enjoying our third cup of coffee today (you know how it is when you have to continue to drink coffee so the cafe continues to let you use the internet) and are trying to figure out the best pathway to Croke Park for the afternoon’s game. Should we walk from O’Connell Street? Or take a bus that swings close by (and then far away from) our given destination? Time and split decisions will tell.

//As a a reminder: Our mobile phone allows us to tweet far easier than blog, so follow the twitter stream (available at the bottom of the page) for updates from the game today.

-ZM

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